A full clutch replacement guide for a two.0 TDI model from Schaeffler Automotive Aftermarket Britain.

Audi released the 8K chassis A4 in 2007. Included in this model were some changes to the clutch and transmission organization with the bicycle base increased, only not the overall length of the car.

This was achieved by moving the front running gear forrard and besides moving the front end differential 152mm from behind the clutch assembly to the side of the clutch assembly and so using a flange shaft that passes through the drive plate/flywheel assembly to connect the drive from the differential to the N/S/F bulldoze shaft (run across below).

The new configuration Audi – chosen Modular Longitudinal Platform (MLP) – is used on all current Audis with a longitudinal engine and gearbox configuration. On initial inspection, a clutch replacement tin can await like a complicated repair, but with a little know- how this volition bear witness to be an ideal job for any contained garage.

RECOMMENDED LABOUR Fourth dimension: 7.v HOURS LUK CLUTCH FITTED: 624328500 LUK DMF FITTED: 415034410

Biting point

The customer's business was that the clutch pedal'south biting signal was very high. After a brusque test confirmed this a clutch replacement was advised and the customer besides requested that the dual mass flywheel (DMF) was replaced. The workshop equipment required for the repair is a two-post ramp, transmission jack and a universal clutch alignment tool.

With the vehicle placed on the ramp, disconnect the battery located in the kicking nether the spare bicycle – don't shut the boot, however, equally this has an electric release system. You should also make sure the steering lock has actuated as y'all have to disconnect the steering column earlier raising the vehicle and removing the engine and gearbox undertrays (run into below).

Remove the manual tunnel bracing frame, taking care to disconnect the pipe bracket and heat shield, then remove the pinch commodities from the steering cavalcade universal joint/steering rack, the frazzle front pipe bracket and also the small o/s heat shield that is fixed to the chassis leg and front sub-frame.

Disconnect the o/south driveshaft from the gearbox flange past removing the half-dozen bolts, then remove the inner driveshaft joint heat shield from the gearbox, held by three Allen bolts. Now disconnect the northward/due south driveshaft from the gearbox flange and remove the small-scale n/s heat shield from the chassis leg and sub- frame (encounter below).

Remove the iii bolts from the driveshaft/flange shaft retaining plate and ease the flange shaft out 25mm then it's ready for removal. Disconnect the electric multi-plug from the steering rack, remove the four basics that hold the anti-curl bar clamps to the sub-frame and allow the anti-ringlet bar to hang downwards (meet below).

Remove the 2 bolts that mountain the steering rack to the front sub-frame, ease the steering rack from the sub-frame and allow it to hang – this gives you admission to the starter motor bolts. Slacken the frazzle sleeve that connects the intermediate pipe to the rear frazzle section and role the frazzle, allowing the intermediate section to hang downward. Support the back of the gearbox with a transmission jack and remove the rear gearbox mounting. At present remove the clutch slave cylinder commodities and ease out the slave cylinder before stowing.

Remove the 3 bolts from the front engine mount to allow a piffling tilt on the engine to aid gearbox removal. Tilt the gearbox downward for access to the elevation of the gearbox. Disconnect the gear linkage and stabiliser bar and also the two electric multi-plugs from the gearbox. In that location is a third multi-plug that is located in a bracket on the top of the gearbox which requires the plug and wiring to exist removed from the bracket and the multi-plug to be disconnected.

Remove the black plastic blanking plate located at the bottom of the bong housing to gain access and so remove the three flywheel-to-bulldoze-plate bolts (see below).

Offset to remove the bong housing bolts, leaving a couple of accessible bolts until the gearbox is supported and ready for removal; good practice is to store the bolts in the position/pattern of removal.

The bell housing bolts have a twice torque life so always mark the heads of the bolts with a centre punch to indicate that they've been torqued for a 2d time and volition require replacement if removed over again. Also note that the top starter motor bolt has a spacer located between the bell housing and the starter motor.

Position the gearbox jack prepare for gearbox removal, and secure the gearbox to the transmission jack (see below).

Now remove the final bell housing bolts and ease the gearbox back. When the gearbox is costless from the engine remove the flange shaft from the gearbox by sliding information technology out between the chassis leg and front sub-frame towards the n/south bicycle. Remove the driveshaft and store.

Carefully remove the gearbox from the vehicle and lower. Now take the black handle tool in the clutch kit and secure it to the flywheel (meet below) before carefully removing the heavy flywheel and clutch associates. The release bearing, arm and sleeve can now as well exist removed. Check for any article of clothing on the release arm pivot points and replace if required.

Using high melting indicate grease, lightly lubricate the pin points on the release arm and supersede the input shaft sleeve and release bearing. Lightly lubricate the input shaft splines and check the clutch plate fits the splines, wiping off any excess grease.

Gather the new clutch and DMF using a clutch alignment tool, ensuring that the driven plate is fitted correctly. When bolting the clutch pressure plate to the DMF tighten the bolts evenly and sequentially. Before installing the clutch and flywheel assembly to the gearbox, check that the three modest yellow springs for the self-adjusting clutch are still compressed. Now support the clutch and flywheel using the tool from the clutch kit (see below).

Check that the dowels are nonetheless located in the engine and then install the gearbox, remembering to insert the flange shaft before locating the gearbox on the engine. With the gearbox and flywheel located, remove the clutch/flywheel support tool, refit the attainable bell housing bolts and tighten. The transmission jack can be removed and used to support the rear of the gearbox and the remaining bell housing bolts installed. Rotate the flywheel to marshal the flywheel to the drive plate holes, insert the new bolts supplied and tighten/torque. Refit all other items in contrary guild of removal.

Farther information, skillful advice and fitting procedures are all available past visiting: www.repxpert.co.uk or post-obit @REPXPERT_UK on Twitter.